TIGERS OF TADOBA

A crocodile sunning itself  at Telia Lake

Ever since I can remember, I have been exposed to just one refrain.. “If you want the best opportunity to sight tigers.. go to Tadoba” . In search of this elusive big cat, I had been to Kanha earlier and got to see just one tiger and that too fast asleep !! We did get ample sightings of other wildlife but, (Panthera tigris)  was conspicuous by his absence.  So, when an opportunity to visit Tadoba, with friends Vivek Joshi, Hemant Gude  and Dr. Bhumkar, arose, I grabbed it with both hands. Hoping that I would get some great sightings and that health would remain  good in April's 45 degrees Celsius  plus we set out.

We took the direct train to Nagpur (The Duranto Express). Another option from Mumbai is to take a train to Chandrapur and then by road to Tadoba. Arriving at Nagpur Railway station at around Seven in the morning, we got into our vehicles and started our three and half hour drive.  On the way, about an hour out of Nagpur, we stopped at a place called Jam, for breakfast. The April sun was steadily rising and so was the temperature in our vehicle.  After what seemed ages, we reached Tadoba Andhari Tiger reserve with a small detour to Chandrapur Station to pick up another friend Shailendra Patil.

Settling down in our rooms, we were informed, that our first park safari would be at 3.00 pm. Even before we could settle down, it was time for Lunch. We were treated to a very spicy lunch (we then told the resort staff to go easy on the spices.. we were not used to eating such spicy food. They obliged and dinner was a milder meal). After lunch, we assembled under the scorching afternoon sun, at the Moharli Gate. Thank fully the resort was walking distance from the gate. In April, Safaris had to be booked, manually, well in advance, at the Forest Department (Chandrapur).  After identifying ourselves, we started our first safari with a mixture of  excitement and discomfort due to the heat. During the drive our guide informed us that since the morning, a tiger had been asleep, near the lake and we would be heading in that direction.

The reserve only allows a limited number of vehicles, every morning and afternoon. If I remember right, it was  26 vehicles. And, it seemed, that all 26 vehicles, were at the same spot as we were, waiting for the tiger to awake. As luck would have it, our vehicle  was towards the end of the long line. Our driver was trying to manoeuvre  his vehicle into the centre of the line, with little success. So  we all, unanimously, told the driver to reverse and park on the side of the road. There was a small gap in the bushes and if the tiger did wake up, and try and cross, he would have to come very close our vehicle;  as the other part of the road was blocked by the vehicles.  We settled down to wait. But in a matter of just a few minutes, say 10 (or maximum 15) a loud whisper erupted, alerting us that the tiger had indeed awakened and was walking from the edge of the lake, towards the road.

My first sight walking up the banks towards us

Craning my neck to catch a glimpse, I  could not spot anything in the bushes. And then suddenly this majestic tiger emerged from my right, taking deliberate steps towards the road, where we were parked. I waited with bated breath, watching, in fascinated awe. Slowly, he climbed the banks alongside the road and he was about to cross it. 

Climbing the banks ever so slowly

Deciding to cross the road in front of us

He changed his mind, and walked a few steps towards us and  for a brief moment looked straight into my eyes. At that moment I clicked !! 

Looking at me.. straight in the eye..

He again changed his mind and then crossed the road. Moving up into the bushes on the other side, he did his trademark “territory marking” ritual which we witnessed. He then vanished into the bushes. So our first Safari.. very very exciting and successful by any standard. We kept talking about seeing a live, wild tiger from so close, for the first time in our lives!!! We then drove around the reserve trying for more sightings, but that was not to be. By 6.30 we were back at the gate.

Now changed his mind again.. road crossing..

Reached the other side.. finished "territory marking"

The next day was an early start.. we had to be in our safari vehicles at the gate at 6.30 am. Looking forward  to another exciting safari hoping to sight many more tigers, we were all in a good mood. And we were in luck. While driving towards the Telia lake, we espied, from afar, a tiger swimming in the lake. He was too far to photograph. But as we got closer to the lake (and again there was a huge queue of vehicles) he came out of the water, and began his majestic walk, along the edge of the lake. This time he walked parallel to us and not towards us.  

In early morning light.. walking parallel to us..

And after he passed from sight,  we saw,  two tiger cubs playing with one another.

Playful cubs...

Finished playing, walking towards the Safari Jeeps...

I managed a good shot of them. And after having finished playing they started walking towards us. They walked ever so slowly and regally and crossed the road between vehicles.. unfortunately, far away from us. But again this was a breathtaking sight. In all we had seen three (or maybe four) tigers all in the morning session, in the space of about 30 minutes.

After that while driving around we did manage to see plentiful wildlife as well. We were treated to a close up view and encounter with Gaur  (also called Indian Bison),

Gaur... Indian Bison

Spotted Deer.. looking at us curiously..

A thirsty female Sambar Deer

Male Sambar Deer

Baby Sambar Deer crossing the road

The shy barking deer

Langur mother & child

Langur family meeting...

Spotted deer, Sambar Deer  and Langurs. We were privileged to see Indian Rollers (posing for us) Oriental Honey Buzzards, 

Indian Roller

Oriental Honey Buzzard

Open billed storks, and red wattled  lapwings.  A very rewarding, exhilarating and exciting  second safari as well, came to an end. Our third Safari was uneventful in terms of sightings and thus came to an end an excellent trip to see the “Tigers of Tadoba”. A not to be missed trip for any wild life lover.

Note: I am told that from June 2013, Tadoba safari bookings can be made online. If anyone has any experience on this (I know the reserve is closed) please do share.