BIRD LOVERS PARADISE... BHARATPUR

    (Note: This blog had been written quite some time ago.. but I clean forgot to publish it. My sincere apologies to all.)

I had always wanted to go to Bhartapur, Rajasthan, also known as the birding Capital of India. However,when, in the past, I had planned, fate conspired against me. Not one to give up easily, I started planning once again. This time, I roped in a couple of fellow birder friends (for good luck) and certainly for their company. Train & stay bookings made, we were finally off, on D day. From Mumbai we took a train up to Mathura Junction and from there a one hour car drive gets you to Bharatpur. Vivek Joshi, Deepak Bartakke and I were excited and looking forward to a very eventful & rewarding birding trip.

Bharatpur, late afternoon landscape.

A lone spotted deer looking at us.. frightened?

Reaching Bharatpur in the early morning, we relaxed at the Hotel and in the afternoon we took our first trip into the park. The actual birding sites are pretty deep in the park and unless you are in great physical shape, walking should be your last option. You can hire a bicycle or a cycle rickshaw at the gate. If hiring a rickshaw, do note that each rickshaw can seat ONLY 2 people. So, if like us, you are an odd number, one person will have to cycle it out.  We hired one rickshaw and in the afternoon went into the Keoladeo National Park (as it is called). That afternoon, there were huge crowds (mostly of school children out on a field visit- making loud, raucous noises, disturbing the birds). So not very great birding. But we did manage to see, in the "Bhainsa Mori" area, hordes of Bhraminy Ducks, Pintails, Northern Shovellers, Comb ducks, Teals, few Large, Intermediate & Little Egrets, and other water birds. However, they were far away and photographing them was tough. Returned to the hotel in the evening, had dinner and slept like a log through the night.

Laughing Dove

White Breasted Kingfisher

The next day was an early trip into the park.  The crowds of the previous day (A public holiday) had thinned considerably. We were staying, with Mr. Devendra Singh (owner of Iora guest house) and a noted Naturalist and keen photographer, himself. He was extremely knowledgeable, helpful and full of tips and advice. Devendra even offered to send Breakfast & Lunch into the park for us... so we would not waste time. We gratefully accepted. He even instructed our rickshaw driver where to take us... for the best sightings. And sure enough... we got to see some amazing birds and some even more amazing pictures.

Our first stop for the day was the water body opposite the Keoladeo temple, where we were privileged to see a huge number of Great White Pelicans swimming gracefully and languidly, in the still waters of the lake. Like children with a new toy, all three of us would run helter-skelter, to get the best shot, of these huge but grace birds. We also got to see the Spot Billed Pelicans as well as the Dalmatian Pelicans, living peacefully among themselves.

Great White Pelican

Great White Pelican

Great White Pelicans

Great White Pelican

Great White Pelican.. Taking Off

Great White Pelican.. landing noisily

What a calm, serene scene this was. After a few hours, we were famished and we headed to the nearby canteen for breakfast (which had arrived by then).  Sitting down on the benches, we were joined by some uninvited, but delightful guests. It is altogether a fantastic experience, to share your breakfast with Common Mynas, Bhraminy Mynas, Jungle Babblers, White Breasted Moorhens, squirrels, and yes, even a Nilgai.

White Breasted Water hen

Oriental Magpie Robin

Roufous Tree Pie

Jungle Babbler .. up close & personal

Neelgai looking at us curiously

All of them, temporarily, shed their shyness and were emboldened to eat from our hands, without feeling threatened. After breakfast, we spent time in photographing Darters, Purple Herons, Grey Herons, White Breasted Kingfishers, Yellow Footed Green Pigeons, Laughing Doves, Bar Headed Geese Magpie Robins, Spotted Owlets, Rose Ringed Parakeets, the Hoopoe, Woodpeckers and so on. We even got to see a Jackal a Cobra and baby python.

Spotted Owlet

Oriental Magpie Robin

Rose Ringed Parakeet

Rose Ringed Parakeet

Sambar and spotted deer were quite common.

The ever busy Hoopoe..

Indian Darter

Bar Headed Goose..

Bar Headed Geese in flight

Mom & baby Spotted Deer (Feeding Time)

Sambar Deer

After a quick lunch, we headed to one of the remotest parts of the park... our Rickshaw driver said there was a possibility of seeing the Sarus Crane... which we all desperately wanted to see. And after a walk of over half an hour, in the hot afternoon sun, we were amply rewarded to see a pair of beautiful Sarus cranes, busily engaged in feeding. They came quite close to us and we had some fantastic photo opportunities. And all of us going click click, happily.

Sarus Crane Pair

Sarus Crane

Sarus Crane

And on our way out of the park, exhausted but rejuvenated, we got to some barbets and red bellied woodpeckers as well. And of course a huge colony of Painted Storks with juveniles.

The next day, we were to return by the evening train to Mumbai, We left early to visit the Chambal National Park to see Crocodiles & Gharials, from close quarters. Not only did we see them in large numbers, we got to see Indian Skimmers as well. After spending the morning, boating on the Chambal River, we were dropped off to Mathura station, for our return. What a rewarding trip it had been !!!  On the way back, all three of us, unanimously decided that we would be back next year. Again. And perhaps yet again.