MY FIRST LEOPARD SIGHTING

Have just returned from a wildlife jungle trip to Sri Lanka, a trip that I had been looking forward to for quite some time.  On landing at Colombo airport, we drive straight to our first destination a jungle. We had three jungles to cover in our itinerary – Udawalawe National Park, Yala National Park and Bundala National Park. The first for Elephants, the second for Leopards and the last for Birding and various reptiles. This narrative is of our trip to Yala National Park.

We made our first half day park round on the first afternoon. It was an uneventful but fruitful round with lots of birding but no Leopard. We returned to the park gates at 6.00 pm.  Our safari vehicle was a tad uncomfortable for 7 people – cramped for room – photography was very difficult. Our organizer (more a friend really) Makarand complained and asked for a better vehicle for the next full day safari.  Groaning I got up at 4.00 am the next day and  left the hotel at 5.00 am to reach the park gates before 6.00 am. And, lo and behold, we now had 2 vehicles for the 7 of us.  I boarded the vehicle with Makarand, Hanferd and Smita (a fun couple – great company) and the others (Yuvraj, Vedavati & Ruta) followed in their vehicle. Very comfortable travel – in fact luxurious is the word to describe our journey. Our driver cum guide seemed experienced too.  The first few hours went by quick enough but the shy big cat did not appear.  We did see an amazing array of birds some reptiles, mongoose monitor lizards, etc.  We had a packed breakfast (at the beach) and our spirits had not  lifted. The spot where we had breakfast had a memorial to the 2004 Tsunami victims.

We set off again on our trip and about half an hour into this leg, after driving around the park, suddenly Makrand shouted (should I say screamed) Leopard. And lo and behold right in front of us was this majestic, athletic animal walking along the road – away from us. For a moment (that bordered on eternity) I stood transfixed, gazing at this beautiful guy walking away from us – wow what a mesmerizing sight. Seeing a leopard in the wild – awesome. I forgot the  camera and its settings- I  was  just so overawed. Suddenly, sanity hit me – I reached for my camera, with shaking hands and the driver gunned the jeep forward. I forgot to adjust the zoom – just started clicking a receding leopard, at random. In a moment, I realized that I was at the low end of my zoom. I immediately zoomed in full length – but too late. The jeeps noise, made the leopard change direction - he sauntered off royally into the bushes. What a beautiful, awesome sight. The other jeep was behind us and I felt sad that they could not glimpse the leopard.

Our driver drove like a maniac, around a bend in the road and parked the vehicle on the “other side” of the bushes.  He told us to wait patiently.  With a thousand thoughts flitting through my mind and after what seemed an eternity the big cat emerged  to cross the road again. This time I was ready to click and he walked by us leisurely and gave us a great photo opportunities. Not once did he turn around to look at us, not once did he seem irritated. He was focussed on just one thing – crossing the road regally. Again, our companion jeep had parked a few hundred yards ahead- so sadly, they missed this opportunity as well. But all of us in our jeep were high – excitement of clicking your first leopard is an experience that cannot be described in words. Afterwards  I started reviewing my pictures and in my excitement I forgot to see all of them. When Henfred showed me his pictures I reviewed mine as well and I saw I had got some pretty decent ones. We moved on and our lunch by the beach was a babble of exited voices sharing what all we had seen and felt.

After lunch we continued with our rounds and at the same place we again spotted (the same?) Leopard in the bushes. He did not come out of the bushes, but was pacing behind them and we clearly saw his body and feet. Then, late afternoon, we saw a leopard perched on a tree branch – very far away. Frankly,  to me  it was a small dot on the far away tree and I wouldn’t count it a sighting. Our fruitful, exciting day was coming to an end and driving towards the gates (our jeep leading)  we managed to sight another leopard going away from us into the bushes. I just got one or two distant shots of his rear.

So, all in all, 5 leopard sightings in a single day, with one fantastic photo opportunity, one average opportunity and a sighting behind bushes. I count myself lucky and blessed to have witnessed this magnificent wild cat from such a close range on 4 occasions, in a single day.  Wondering if  I would like to go again? You bet !!!

(The photographs may not appear in sequence -but don't worry read the captions to get the sequence)

First Sighting Ambling along the road

First Sighting Ambling along the road

First Sighting Ambling along the road

First Sighting Ambling along the road-
hears the jeep and decides to cross

Jeep noise disturbs him and hes off into the bushes

Road crossing in progress

Road crossing in progress

Road crossing in progress

Road crossing in progress

Road crossing in progress .. nearing the end

Road crossed heading off into the bushes

Almost crossed will disappear anytime now

Road crossing complete - my last shot before he disappears

The third sighting.. heading away from us

The last Hurrah.. going away from us.. culminating in 4 sightings in a single day !!

Second Sighting - we are at a vantage point when
he comes into view and crosses the road

TRIIP TO BHANDUP PUMPING STATION - A LITTLE KNOWN BIRDING DESTINATION IN MUMBAI

When my friend  Vivek Joshi  suggested we visit Bhandup Pumping Station, he was forthright that he did not know the place and had not been there before. However he pointed out that it could be  an adventure. I must say I was a bit apprehensive of this adventure, but being an avid birder I readily agreed  to go. So, very early in the morning, left home to meet up with him and another friend, Mr. Bartakke at Nahur Station. And we set off for what was to become a wonderful adventure.

The morning was cloudy and we reached the small turn (many miss this turn) and started our trek towards the Pumping Station. Almost immediately, on the salt pans adjoining the highway, we saw a flock of common egrets and a huge colony black cormorants, sitting idly. A few people entered the salt pans, talking loudly and shouting at each other. This disturbed the birds and they took off for safer places. We were disappointed that we could not spend much more time, gazing in wonder, at these wonderful birds.

 

We then started our trek inwards, into the area of the of the Pumping station and beyond. The common Mayna was almost everywhere. We did see spot spoonbills (Eurasian, I think) in wonderful, graceful flight.  They formed a wonderful pattern, gliding above us.

Carrying on, we discovered a narrow path on the circumference of the pumping station, that leads to a well camouflaged lake. The serene lake with not too much of a crowd, was graced with a colony of painted storks (though at a distance). They were busy catching fish, for their food. We were lucky to see the Pied Avocet, as well as Common Redshanks, and Black Winged Stilts among others. 

We were unlucky to have missed seeing and photographing  a Raptor – commotion caused by over enthusiastic (and perhaps first time?) birders, ensured that the raptor flew away, because of the commotion. We also got to see (and photograph) colourful Dragonflies  resting and in flight. 

  
 All in all a very rewarding and enjoyable trip. A bit tiring though –so after we finished, we had a small breakfast break – with biscuits and farsan being passed all around. And, before we knew it, we were headed homewards, after being treated to a really enthralling morning of bird watching and photographing.

HOW TO REACH

Bhandup Pumping Station is a relatively unknown place to a lot of people and is not as famous as say SGNP. But it is easily accessible for both Mumbaikars as well as out of towners. If you go by local train Nahur is the nearest  local train station from which you can easily get a bus or auto rickshaw  to take you to the Pumping Station. If you are driving then (from the Mumbai side heading to Thane) take a U turn under the Airoli flyover and look for a small turn  off to the left. This is a narrow but tarred road and you can drive on this road close up to the lake. You can then park and do the rest of the trek on foot.                                             

TIPS FOR VISITORS

·         If possible go on weekdays or Saturdays – you are likely to avoid the Sunday crowds.

·         Carry a cap, enough water and some light eats – but do not dirty the place and carry plastic bags back home.

·         A pair of binoculars is an absolute must along with your camera with a good zoom or telephoto lens. (I found a 70 300 mm lens inadequate!!)

·         When approaching birds be kind to them by not speaking at all. I have discovered that I enjoy watching birds more when I (and the people of my group) are totally silent. Approach the birds slowly and in camouflage, to the extent possible – wear neutral colour clothes.

·         Switch your cell on to silent mode and don’t make or receive calls when bird watching.

·         Go in small groups and respect other birders as well – allow them to photograph and watch the birds as well. 

MAHARASHTRA NATURE PARK

If anyone had told me that there is an oasis of peace and tranquillity in the heart of Mumbai, I would have laughed in his face. But my friend persisted and got me to visit the Maharashtra Nature Park – more with a view to proving him wrong. So with Camera in tow, I took off early to visit this park in the heart of bustling Mumbai city.  I had expected a harrowing experience ... but read on.

The first surprise is that not too many people know of this place (or if they do they give it a miss). This was evident by the thin crowds at the park. I got to park the car safely on the road just outside the main gate.  The main gate is NOT the one opposite the Dharavi bus terminus but the next one (if you are driving from the western suburbs).

 

  

 Once you enter the park – you are in the lap of nature. Dense foliage makes the park a haven for both flora & fauna. This park is spread over an area of about 30 acres and has been built on what earlier was a garbage dumping ground. There is no evidence of a garbage dump today. You get the services of a guide and interpreter should you require one. The park itself is well maintained with clean (filtered) drinking water available and clean toilets. Entry fee is Rs. 5/= for individuals. 

On my visit I did experience the peace and quiet that is not normally available to Mumbai residents. The park has a number of trees, which provide shade and a cover to the myriad life forms that thrive under them I did see an exquisite beetle, a long caterpillar and butterflies of many hues – flitting from one flower to another. They didn’t sit still for me to photograph them – but they were beautiful and multi coloured nonetheless.

 I got to photograph a sun bird at a distance and many many flowers. As it had rained the previous night  I got the opportunity to capture dew drops (or raindrops) on the verdant green leaves.

I am told that there are a number of birds that we can see at the park but I didn’t see too many. But this has made me determined to visit the park every two or three months to see and capture the birds that I do get to see.

On returning home I called up my friend and told him that he was right and (sceptic that I was) I was delighted to be proved wrong . And that he should accompany me on my next visit.

Tips for Visitors

1.       As the park is well maintained please do not carry food articles inside. If you do, please do not leave any plastic bags behind.

2.       Best time to visit is early morning – the park opens at 8.00 am – you will have the park almost to yourselves at this time

3.       Depending on the month of your visit, it would be a good idea to carry (and use) some mosquito repellent cream

4.       Do not be in a hurry, enjoy the park at a leisurely  pace – the park has much to offer if you are patient.

5.       You may find a magnifying glass, a pair of binoculars and a camera useful. For serious nature lovers a guide would be able to help you identify the trees, plants and birds and butterflies.

A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE - "FIRE IN BABYLON"

Let me make an honest admission.  I am (and have always been a great cricket fan). I have played cricket during my School & College days and on many other occasions during my student life as well. And ever since I can remember I have been an unapologetic cricket fan. And my favourite cricket team has always been the West Indies. I remember with fondness names like Conrad Hunte, Basil Butcher, Seymour Nurse, Rohan Kanhai, Charlie Griffith (responsible for cracking open Nari Contractor’s skull) Wes Hall (the gentle giant) Garfield Sobers, Lance Gibbs and others who made the nucleus of the West Indies team of late sixties and early seventies. As a child, I even had the privilege of watching one day of a test match in Madras (as it was known then) when India played the West Indies. And my excitement knew no bounds when I entered the stadium and took my place to see my heroes in action. A rare thrilling moment that. Watching the greats in action. I did not mind getting up at 5.00 am and travelling 30 km early in the morning to stand in queue waiting in the scorching sun for the stadium gates to open and allow us into its hallowed folds.

And I have been a follower of West Indies cricket ever since. The mid to late seventies saw them become a world power in cricket – a power to reckon with. I followed with fascination the emergence of menacing West Indian fast bowlers – like Andy Roberts, Michael Holding, Malcolm Marshall, Wayne Daniel, Colin Croft and Big Bird Joel Garner (at 6ft. 8in) tall. And the batting dominated by one of their best opening pairs  Greenidge & Haynes followed by Vivian Richards, Alvin Kallicharan,  Clive Lloyd, and others.

So, when I had an opportunity to see “Fire in Babylon” which released in Mumbai recently – I grasped the opportunity to see it with both hands. And what a great film it turned out to be. How can cricket be used as a metaphor? How can it be used to restore pride? How can it be used to bind players from diverse backgrounds and ethnicities into a well oiled fighting unit? And how do you cope with continuous assault – both physical and emotional? How do you build character that can withstand the most brutal attack? And yet retain your dignity and respect? These and many other questions are asked (and answered) in this documentary. How the West Indies took a hammering at the hands of Australians Dennis Lillee and Jeff Thompson. And how that loss became a rallying cry for West Indies cricket is the stuff legend is made of. 
Interwoven into this rich tapestry of narrative is the culture of the day – dominance of the colonial powers, suppression of the black man, apartheid. So many of the burning topics of that time and how the West Indies team dealt with each of them. And you get to see world greats like Holding, Richards, Roberts, Lloyd, Croft, and Greenidge speaking into the camera and letting their hearts out.  You get to see and discover why Michael Holding was called “whispering death” or “greased lightning”, what Vivian Richards responses to hostile bowling was, how batsmen around the world were terrified of Joel Garner. And most of all you rediscover that for fifteen long years the West Indies did not lose a single series that they played in.  A world record indeed!

For people of my generation a great nostalgia trip that gives you a fantastic high. And for the newer generations a chance to see these greats in action and to experience firsthand concepts like black power, apartheid, colonialism,  and white dominance and their hypocrisy.   

From an unabashed cricket fan. A cricket lover. A cricket fanatic, even a cricket lunatic !!!

TRIP TO KAAS PLATEAU - SEPTEMBER 2012.

For the last 15 years or so I have always dreamt of a trip to the Valley of Flowers  near Joshimath in Uttarakhand. I had been close on a visit to Char Dham when we had passed through Joshimath, but we did not have time enough to make the trip from Joshimath to Hemkunt Sahib and then on to the Valley of Flowers. A trip that I wanted to make – to see nature in all its beauty. Somehow or the other whenever I came close to planning a trip – events conspired to ensure that I didn’t make the trip. And I lived with a deep sense of regret at not having seen mother nature in all her pristine natural beauty.

Sometime back a friend casually mentioned Kaas (near Satara) to me saying it was Maharashtra’s own Valley of flowers. The best season to visit it is just after the monsoons. He explained that Kaas is very special as the plateau has been formed by the lava from a volcano that erupted ages ago. What’s special about this rock formation is that this is porous rock ( Basalt Rock) where the top soil is just a few inches thick. So the roots of plants can not go deep. Hence all the flowers grow on shrubs and there are hardly any trees on the pleatu.

Given the ambient temperature, climatic conditions, height from mean sea level and  annual rainfall some of the rarest plants grow here and can  be seen to the discerning eye. I was intrigued enough to want to go – but had to find an opportune time to visit Kaas. Eventually last weekend came the opportunity and I grabbed it with both hands. We left Mumbai early morning and Satara is about a 6 hours drive. The road is till Pune is the Mumbai Pune Expressway and from Pune the Bangalore highway – both excellent roads. You could safely take your own car there as well. Our first day was spent at Thoseghar Waterfalls (about 25 km from Satara) – falls that drop from a  height of over 200 metres. The falls make for fascinating viewing what with mist rising at the base of the falls and the falls themselves making a roaring sound resounding in your ears.

CEROPEGIA VINCAEFOLIA

The next day we left Satara early at 7.30 am to reach Kaas by 8.30 am.  It is advisable to get an early start – you can spend time in quiet solitude with mother nature and experiment with camera angles and light before tourists arrive in their hundreds. When we arrived the plateau was covered with thick mist making visibility very difficult. We alighted from the bus – no parking of vehicles is allowed on the plateau (there is a dedicated parking spot – you then have trek the rest of the way). First stop Kaas lake – a beautiful spot where we got see and photograph the Ceropegia vincaefolia a beautiful bulb.  We saw some enchanting flowers  like Vigna Vexillata –Halunda, Euphorbia Lata, Cyanotis Fasciculata – Neelwanti, etc.  (I could not identify all the flowers.)  With high winds, incessant rains and mist all around it became impossible to photograph anything.

EARLY MORNING DEW DROPS

INDIAN ARROWROOT

THE RARE SUN DEW PLANT

Abolima

Vigna Vexillata -Halunda

So the only thing to do was to get drenched and silently stare, wonder struck, at mother nature’s pristine beauty in all its glory, and silently say a prayer of thanks, that you got to commune with her. We of course got to see some very rare plants (the sun dew being one of them). After spending a few hours I reluctantly  boarded the bus home – wishing I could stay at Kaas forever!!

Travel Tips

Ø  Get an early start – best to reach there even before the forest department guards

Ø  Taxis and buses are available from Satara to Kaas and back. Be sure to check bus timings.

Ø  Carry your own food and drinking water. Some snacks are available near the lake.

Ø  Do NOT litter – carry back all your waste. Lets preserve Kaas for future generations to enjoy as well.

Ø  Do not pluck flowers or plants. Note that ALL these plans cannot grow ANYWHERE else except at Kaas.

Ø  Do not pollute the air by smoking.

Ø  Carry robust rain wear the weather is unpredictable. Some warm clothing is also advisable.

Ø  If you are an avid nature lover a magnifying glass is a must as also a field guide on flowers. (I recommend Dr. Sandip Shrotri’s book – Pleatu of flowers – Kaas as a good reference guide.)

Ø  Be careful while photographing flowers do not trample adjacent flowers – they would die. Also check you camera – battery fully charged, appropriate lens, filters, lens caps, etc all in place.

Ø  The plateau closes by 6.00 pm – so be sure to head back before that – so that nature can regenerate for the next morning.

Ø  If you have some sunshine – count yourself lucky – you will be able to see some flowers actually blooming.

A landscape - flowers through the mist !!

A landscape

60 YEARS OF INDIAN PARLIAMENT

I have been reading the recent articles on euphoria that has gripped the political class on the completion of 60 years of India’s parliament. To quote Sonia Gandhi – “an anniversary is also a moment of reflection, to consider our role and place in the rich fabric of our nations life and history. The integrity and independence of parliament must be preserved and protected at all costs with no room for compromise.” Wow what a laudable statement indeed.

Taking a cue from her I have been doing my own reflection and am quite bewildered at what I see going on. On reflection I find that the 16^th. Lok Sabha  has a strength of 552 members and of these 162 members have criminal and/or other cases pending against them. Our politicians, who comprise the integrity of parliament, have some really stark and compelling cases against them. Consider this- 14 LS members reportedly have cases of murder against them (what are they doing outside and attending parliament, when they should be in jail), 20 reportedly have an attempt to murder charge against them, 13 of abduction and 11 have charges of cheating against them.  So, about 33 % of the 16^th. Lok Sabha, is under a very dark cloud indeed, and they have the temerity to talk of the “integrity” of parliament.

Can these members really uphold the “integrity” of India’s parliament? And where will this lead the country?  We have been mute witnesses to the almost daily disruptions in parliament, we have seen unruly behaviour (with one MP striding up to the treasury benches and tearing up a bill – when proceedings are telecast live) again almost every day, walkouts, non issues being hotly debated (if you can call it a debate) and generally uncivilized behaviour is more the norm rather than the exception. And some MPs are caught watching porn and some are caught in the act and CDs circulated.

These are the lawmakers of our country. And we the people have elected them. So I guess we get the government we deserve. But is this what India deserves? A government that is dithering all the time. A government that is held to ransom by fringe players, who make up the numbers to prop up a government, which has no right to govern. And we are told that these are the compulsions of coalition politics !! What a travesty, on all of us long suffering Indians. And whenever our MPs are called names they hit back citing that the “integrity of parliament” must be upheld at all costs. And that is why Anna Hazare’s campaign has been a big hit with the people but not with the parliamentarians. They just don’t realize that they are the people who have contributed most, to erosion of parliament’s lack of integrity and a total disenchantment with the political class. A crying shame indeed that politics has now come to be criminalized in the way it has.

So what can be done? Is all lost? I don’t think so. Not yet anyway. And not all of our MPs are bad – but they get tainted with the same brush.. unfortunately. All we have to do is to start a small movement for change – even a small one where each of my readers makes a personal commitment that we will not vote for any candidate who has any criminal case pending against him/her. It is a duty we have to undertake unfailingly as it is both a duty as well as an obligation to future generations of Indians! Just think for a minute – is this the India that Rabindranath Tagore dreamed and wrote about when he penned …. to this India let me awake?